today’s conditions were pristine.  no wind, warm weather, and glassy waves.  when i was heading out, i could feel like i was going to score! 

when a surfer sees the ocean like this, it’s a dream.  

i stop by this usually crowded spot and was wondering why there were only 3 surfers out?  they told me that the box jellyfish warning scared everybody away.  wow, that’s cool!  i think i like box jellyfish now.  haha.  the other day had 30 guys out at this time, now only 3?  score!

we just took turns wave after wave.  and there were so many empty waves too.  i felt like i was on a Indonesia boat trip again.  

i chose to ride my foil today because i wanted to practice my pumping.  i took off on this wave and rode into 6 consecutive waves.  after towing in yesterday on the North shore, this was very comfortable.  no stress, no adrenaline rush, and no heavy wipeouts.  just flying around like a happy and peaceful bird.   i wonder what tomorrow will bring…

if i wasn’t Seth’s uncle, i would be considered a stalker.  since he was born, nobody has more photos and videos of this kid.  so watching him live at the WSL contest in Australia, i’m continuing my stalking techniques.  haha.  

i was really impressed with Seth surfing these big waves.  he looked so comfortable and so confident.  

Round 3 heat winner.  next is 2x World Champ Medina.  you can do it Seth!!!

since i can’t travel, i just reminisce travel.  15 years ago i took the train across Japan alone making stops here and there.  some to sightsee, some to visit friends, and some to hunt.  

this stop was to visit friends and hunt.  it turned out to be very successful.  i’ll never forget that seafood party that followed.  this is the Japan i love…

Always Searching for the Barrel…

Good morning 3:30am.
North shore chest high and perfect.
Ala Moana waist high and perfect.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Light trade winds at 10mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!