for the past months, i’ve been avoiding the crowds.  it takes a little more effort and a lot more time, but when you find good waves, it’s all worth it…

but the past 2 days, i’ve been back to the crowds.  easy parking, short paddle, and hardly any effort.  and now i’m back on my shortboard, i have to compete for waves because like everyone else, i want the best ones.  so mixing it up recently has been fun.  and talking to my friends in the lineup has been fun too…

Secret Spots for Foilers Only.  We are Loving it…

Good morning 3:30am.
North shore 2-4′ and perfect.
Ala Moana waist with chest high sets and perfect.
Diamond Head shoulder high and good.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sun, clouds, showers, and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

the waves have been absolutely amazing on the South shore!   head high, off shore, and perfect.  i surfed again this morning and my mind and body is feeling like a surfer again!

even though i didn’t want to watch the contest in Australia yesterday, i did.  but this time, finally the waves were good!  and when the waves are good, Seth Moniz is good…

we have a group chat and all i did was send one word, “FINALLY!”