when there’s a full moon, i go check the waves earlier than normal because i can see everything.  so when i saw the ocean at Diamond Head, i knew this was a golden chance to surf somewhere else that is bigger, stronger, and better.  and that’s what i like to chase…

when i got there, the moon was still there.  so for the hour it took, i was driving and paddling right into the moonlight.  totally speechless…

Only in Hawaii…

Good morning 4am.
Ala Moana waist to chest high and perfect.
Diamond Head shoulder high and perfect.
Light winds so clean morning conditions. Trade winds come back soon.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

i was sitting in the dark this morning checking Diamond Head. the waves looked better than i thought, so i thought i’d go to a spot that should be much much better.  it takes over an hour to get to the spot, but i knew it would be worth it.

so i pull up and the conditions couldn’t have been any better.  it’s a very far paddle out but i’m paddling full speed so it’s not too bad.  i was super excited because it’s been a while since i’ve been here.

i turn and take off on my first wave, then pump into 4 waves back to back.  i seriously could have gone in feeling totally content.  but it was so good that i ended up staying out for a couple of hours.

i felt like i was on a surf trip.  the waves were absolutely perfect!

then i came back to town and took a look at Diamond Head again.  it was super good!  i grabbed my board and ran down the hill.  when i paddled out, one of my friends told me “where were you this morning?  you missed out!!!”  i looked at him and smiled.  silence is golden…