Surfing with a Friend…

we went to go visit our friend in the ocean.  so we took few freshly picked flowers to spread some sweetness to her…

it’s cool how you can feel so connected to people from the ocean.  i have so many of my good friends resting here so maybe that’s why i feel at peace when i’m in the ocean.  most of my surfers friends feel the same.  so when ever you want to feel a connection, head to the sea…

last time i saw a dolphin, this time a saw a turtle.  when i was young, i was never a spiritual guy, but now, i definitely believe in it.  it’s a really good feeling…

April 30, 2021 Hawaii Surf Report

Surf Travel:  Backyard Boat Trip!  I love it!!!

Good morning 4am.
Ala Moana shoulder high and perfect.
Diamond Head head high and good.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to surf!
Have a wonderful day!

Always Finding the Perfect Wave…

the past 2 nights i slept by 7:30pm so i was ready for the early morning sessions.  this morning, the weather was clear, the wind was crisp, and the waves were amazing!  i took out my shortboard and figured out how to surf again!  i was doing 3 turns per wave and i even got barreled.  and that was only Round 1…

i passed by Rockpiles and couldn’t believe how many surfers were out.  omg!  that didn’t look fun to me.

i picked up a couple of my friends and went searching for the perfect wave.  and guess what?  we found it!  a perfect point right peeling like a dream.  and to top it off, nobody was out!  it was the 3 of us doing what we love most, Boat Trip!!!

when you can enjoy surfing, friendship, and life all at once, you’re pretty content.  i want to thank my friends for an amazing day, and want to thank Mother Nature for sending us perfect waves for our dream session…