i felt like short boarding yesterday but i just took my foil for backup.  

when got out, i short boarded and everybody was taking turns.  it was super fun.  until…

30 minutes later, there were long boarders everywhere!  nobody taking turns, no manners, and just chaos!   so i went back to the boat and got my foil.  then i caught every wave i wanted, pumped around all the guys taking my waves earlier, and just creating my own kind of chaos.  i had a lot of fun!

after all that fun, i went to pick up my friends and went back out for more fun.  this spot had nobody out so i short boarded. we had a lot of fun again!  now, i’m going to make sure i’m prepared for surfing or foiling.  or both!

I love my new DOVE wetsuit bag!  Dove for Life…

Good morning 4:30am.
North shore 3-5′ and good.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm. Welcome back rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

once again, i was in the ocean from 5:30-11am.  5.5 hours of total fun in the sun!  the waves were perfect again and our little secret spot was amazing!  boat trip Hawaii!

it’s pretty crazy how you can find a break all to yourselves in these day.  i short boarded 2 rounds and my surfing is getting better.  i also foiled too so going back and forth is very important for me.  we were the 3 happiest surfers in the world today!

whenever i’m on my shortboard, i’m always searching for the barrel.  from waist high to 20′, i’m going to pull in no matter what!  barrels are my life…