April 19, 2021 Hawaii Surf Report

Summer Fun…

Good morning 4:30am.
North Shore chest high and perfect.
Ala Moana waist high and good. Rain storm coming so bumpy, then getting clean.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Light winds so nice conditions.
Rainy morning, sunny afternoon, and hot.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Choke Traffic

i decided to go to the mountains today with my brothers and sister.  and we weren’t the only ones heading to the mountain.  there was traffic all the way up!

once we got there, all the boys started to show up.  we had a group of 15 of us carving up the mountains.  it was so cool to be this pack of Hawaii’s best dirt bike riders!

i’ve been exercising everyday so i’m in the best shape of my life.  but in the mountains, i feel weak.  i’m using different parts of my body and different parts of my brain.  so yes, it’s a good physical and mental challenge.  and i love challenges… 

i snuck sway from the group and rode my bike down the mountain.  i wanted to be close to the ocean so i rode it down to the white sandy beach.  i couldn’t believe how good Velzyland was!!!  omg, i wish i had my surfboard!!!

then i checked the traffic on the way back to town.  it was backed up from Sunset Beach to Laniakea.  that would take an hour just for that short distance, so we decided to drive around the island home which was a good choice.  a beautiful drive and a beautiful day!!!

Major League Call UP

minor leagues vs. major league.  i consider myself minor league so i’ve been waiting to get called up to the major league everyday.  that means i’m well rested, in top shape, and ready for the call up at anytime.  so at 3am every morning, i wake up, eat breakfast, exercise, and ready to go.  if i get called, i’m on the highway heading out to the North Shore in the dark.  100% mentally and 100% physically.   you almost have to be at the top of your game for the major league game…

because if you show up not being ready, your coach will know and you will be in trouble.  Kaiborg is the most experienced guy to be with when getting towed by the jetski.  and you better be ready to let go of the rope.  this was my 2nd time playing in the major league and i hope to get called up again, and again, and again…

i had so much fun towing in.  it’s twice the speed and twice the adrenaline.  you’re literally flying faster than an eagle.  by the time you’re finished, your body, mind, and soul is down to 10%.  i was driving home with a smile from ear to ear.  i felt totally content…