
Exciting: I love it…
Good morning 5am.
Ala Moana waist with chest high sets.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to exercise.
Have a wonderful day!

Exciting: I love it…
Good morning 5am.
Ala Moana waist with chest high sets.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to exercise.
Have a wonderful day!

a long time ago, i use to drive down to the local contests every weekend to see how my nieces and nephews did. they would always win so i’d get them together and take a photo. little did the world know, some of these kids would soon be famous. i’ve been documenting their careers since they were in diapers. super proud of each and every one of them!!!

i was surprised to hear that Andy King is coaching Gabriel Medina and Seth Moniz in Australia. Andy is a super good coach, and Gabriel is a super good World Champion. so yeah, Seth is lucky to have good guys in his corner. and what makes it cooler is i know Andy King. 
20 years ago, we hung out a week in the Philippines at Cloud 9, then we jumped on a boat trip for a week right after. i got to know Andy pretty well and he’s a true professional, and a true good mate…
omg, i was watering my avocado tree and i saw flowers!!! that means i’m finally going to get fruit after all these years!!!
last week i got tricked to ride. if i knew Mason would lead, me in the middle, and Tony will follow me, i would have never gone. imagine me trying to keep up with Mason and getting followed so closely behind by Tony. talk about pressure! it was actually scary and dangerous when i thought about it. never again…