2 days ago, i went to the mountains.  and whenever we came by a spot where you could see the ocean, i stopped and checked out the waves.  i could see a nice late season North swell so i was bummed i didn’t have my surfboard with me.

so yesterday, i went back to catch that North swell.  surfed with a couple of friends and had a wonderful time.  nice waves, good vibe, and lovely nature.  secret spot so sorry no photos…

about 15 years ago, i was walking around Tokyo and walked into the Ferrari showroom.  i clearly remember thinking to myself “wow, i would love to have one of these someday.”  and now that it’s 15 years later, my thinking has completely changed.  i don’t need a nice car.  i don’t need lots of money.  all those desires aren’t there anymore.  all i need is a few close friends, my family, and a very simple life.  i think i finally grew up.  haha…

Everybody Go-Naminori!!!

Good morning 5:45am.
Ala Moana waist high and perfect.
Diamond Head chest high and perfect.
Light winds so clean morning conditions.
Sun, clouds, and heavy rain coming.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

check out Joshua when he was a little kid.  i remember him being so scared of big waves, so scared of shallow reef, and extremely scared of sharks.  throughout the years, this little kid grew stronger, gained confidence, and became a man…

last week i told Joshua i would take him blue water diving today.  i ended up cancelling because i couldn’t go.  but this morning, he went out anyway.  and guess what?  he finally caught the fish he was chasing for 10 years!  i’m so happy is dream came true, and i’m even happier that he could do it on his own.  now i’ll be waiting for the sashimi.  haha.  good boy Josh!  i’m super proud of you!!!