now that it’s feeling like Summer, surfing at 5am will be a routine.  sometimes in the car, and sometimes in the boat.  either way, i’m feeling so connected…

and when i come across some playful dolphins, i will stop everything and enjoy this precious moment.  i can’t wait to take you there!  

Mateus comes over and practices his head stand regularly.  and he’s getting really good at it.  

i was playing with the kids all afternoon and ended the night with dessert.  this kids are the cutest, but i get so tired after watching them for so long.  they take all of my energy.  haha…

The Boys Club…

Good morning 5am.
Ala Moana chest high and perfect.
Diamond Head head high and good.
Light winds so nice morning conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the mountain.
Have a wonderful day!

i went to Diamond Head this morning in the dark and when i paddled out, i couldn’t believe how big it was.  it was much bigger than i expected.

by the time i came in, there were 50 guys out.  Summer swells are here!

then when i looked at Ala Moana side, it was much smaller than i thought.  weird swell because Diamond Head was much much bigger than anywhere else.

seen this Father and Son riding a wave together.  i wanted to yell at both of them “LOOK FORWARD!!!”

i’m taking a day off from the ocean tomorrow and heading to the mountain.  going to get dirty and i can’t wait!