we live in a very crazy world now, even in Hawaii.  a military guy locked himself in his hotel room, shot at security guards, then shot himself.  and this happened at the quiet and peaceful The Kahala Hotel!  can you imagine what the tourists were feeling?  that’s going to be a negative impact for luxury The Kahala Hotel.  such a bummer…

after being in the mountain all day yesterday, i needed to go refresh in the ocean.  and there is no better way than jumping on Mayuki and going with the flow.  i had no plan so i wasn’t expecting anything special…

i pulled up to one of the best right handers on the South shore.  the waves and conditions were dreamy.  i seriously thought i was in Indonesia.  today was the best day of the year for sure!  

and since it was the calmest conditions of the year, i headed way out to sea to explore.  full throttle straight out to sea! 

then i came across this baby whale.  it must have just been born because it was the size of a dolphin.  i turned off the motors, drifted, and this baby whale stayed right by Mayuki for over an hour.  

going up and down in the complete silence.  i’ve never experienced a baby whale staying so close to me for that long of time.  i wanted to jump in and swim with it but i knew Mama was close by.  and i didn’t want to be on the evening news headline about a guy getting eaten by a whale.  haha…

then i came back to reality and couldn’t believe how crowded Bowls was.  i was thinking to myself “i’m not surfing at Bowls for a while.”  

then after a nap, i was revived and went to foil Bowls.  haha.  i had an amazing session!  it’s crazy how the ocean always calls me back.  tomorrow bigger waves coming so i’ll be back…

by the end of the day, lots of our friends showed up so it was so cool riding with everybody.  i was the least experienced so even though i struggled, i learned a lot from these guys.

the mountains on the North Shore are so beautiful.  there are trails linking to trails that seem never-ending.  i hope to go back next weekend!  

everybody says my brother is an “animal” in the mountain.  that means he’s crazy and super good on his dirt bike.  i was following him trying to keep up and crashing over and over.  he was the tiger, i was the kitten.  now i know what “animal” means…

no, it wasn’t raining, nor was there a swimming pool.  i was basically swimming in my sweat.  the best workout i’ve had in decades!  

and also the worst lunch i had in decades.  a ham sandwich from the convenience store.  i had a hard time eating it but i was so hungry that i closed my eyes and imagined eating sushi.  when you’re hungry, you will eat anything…

my bike and i got pretty muddy.  sweat and mud don’t mix to well.  this is when i missed the ocean…

Moloka’i…

Good morning 4am.
Ala Moana waist to chest high and perfect.
Diamond Head chest to shoulder high and good.
Light winds this morning so perfect conditions. Trade winds coming back soon.
Sunny and warm.
Going back to the ocean.
Have a wonderful day!