Rest of his Life…

i went to a secret spot this morning and there were only 2 other guys out.  lots of waves and super fun.  no photos because i’m going there again tomorrow.

then this afternoon i passed by Diamond Head and decided to challenge myself.  i did something totally different for the first time and i used every ounce of energy.  now i have a new afternoon workout routine that started today.  so exciting!  

on Seth’s 13th birthday, i took him and the boys diving.  i really wanted him to catch something special so he could remember this birthday for the rest of his life.  

so if you ever ask Seth Moniz what he did on his 13th birthday, he has an amazing story to tell you for the rest of his life…

Don’t say: You Missed It?

yesterday was Easter Sunday so i knew it was going to be really crowded everywhere in the morning.  i exercised first, then pulled up mid-morning.  when i was in the parking lot, i seen a bunch of surfers that just came in.  as i started to walk to the spot, this guy came up to me and said “wow, it was so good this morning, you missed it.”  of course i ignore negative comments so i kept on walking.   then i wondered,  “what did i miss?”  then i thought “who is that guy?  i don’t even know him?  and how can he say i missed something when he didn’t even know what i was doing earlier?”  anyway, i paddle out and only 2 guys were out.  then one guy goes in and it’s only me and my friend Eddie foiling the most perfect waves.  it’s almost feels like we’re on a surf trip or something.  Eddie tells me “omg, there was 15 guys out right before you paddled out.”   then i thought again, “what did i miss?  what was that guy even talking about?”   

when you have the whole ocean to yourself, it’s a good time to try things you normally wouldn’t when it’s crowded.  this is where i push my limits to the fullest.  sometimes i succeed, and sometimes i don’t.  but my saying has always been “if you don’t go, you won’t know.”  so now i know i’m not ready for what i attempted.  haha…

**anyway, i’ll teach you guys surfing mannerism.  never tell a surfer you don’t know that “you missed it.”  it makes no sense to me.  maybe he likes surfing with 15 guys?   i sure don’t so i didn’t miss anything dude…

April 5, 2021 Hawaii Surf Report

I really miss Japan…

Good morning 4am.
Ala Moana knee to waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Sunny and warm day.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!