Another downwind run today?

Good morning 5am.
Ala Moana knee to waist high and clean.
Diamond Head waist to chest high sets and fun.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

today i was keeping my eye on the wind all day long and waiting for the right time.  then when i could imagine myself foiling down with the wind, i prepared myself for the long ride.

i drove to my finish line and hid my slippers in the tree.  the reason is i don’t want to walk barefoot for miles back to my car on the hot pavement.

then i drove to my starting point.  all i need is to catch one of these swells, pump out to sea, and ride the wind down the coast as far as possible…

i had a really good start today.  i made it a lot farther than yesterday without falling.  yesterday i fell 3 times, today i only fell once.  and even though i still feel a little lost at sea, i can connect much better and understand the flow.  tomorrow will be even better…

the hardest part of down winding is walking back to your car.  i can paddle and paddle for miles and miles without getting tired.  but when i walk for miles, i get tired and my legs hurt.  nobody picked me up today so i was almost going to call an Uber.  haha.  so the longer i foil, the longer i walk.  soon this walk will be easy for me because down winding will be a daily routine this Summer…

i really needed to challenge myself to something different.  so i drove my car down the road and hid my slippers in a tree.  i did this because i knew if i succeeded, i would have to walk a few miles back to my car.  

then i drove barefoot up the coast, parked my car, and jumped off these rocks.  i paddled out, caught a wave, pumped straight out to sea, and then started to foil the wind swell as far as i could.  it was my first time so i was pretty exited.  maybe too excited because my heartbeat was so high that my cardio was pretty bad.  i fell 3x so had to paddle all the way back to the waves, catch one, pump back out, and do it all over again.  it was probably the best workout i’ve done in my life.  

so i made it a couple miles down, grab my slippers from the tree, then start the 40 minute walk back to my car.  half way there, a guy pulled behind me and said “unko, you need a ride?”  thank you Zeke Lau for taking this old man back to his car.  i was almost going to give up and never do that again.  but now, i’m going to keep trying until i accomplish my mission…  

i haven’t been this tired in a while.  from paddling, to foiling, to hiking, to walking.  i hope to be able to do this without being so tired.  until then, i’ll never give up…