Transition Memories

well, the North shore winter season is almost over.  there will probably be a couple more late season swells but for the most part, it will go flat.  my number one memorable day was tow in foiling for the first time out at this outer reef.  

i haven’t had my adrenaline running so high like that in a long time.  but at the same time, i was the most calmest i could ever be.  i still remember driving back to town the happiest man in the world.  

as Summer approaches, these calm and glassy days at Diamond Head will be far in-between.  so if you missed it, sorry.

as for the crowds, this Summer is going to be crazy.  when you add in the tourists, the crowds will double.  so be safe and be patient.  your wave will come…

March 31, 2021 Hawaii Surf Report

Summer is here…

Good morning 4:10am.
North shore waist high and coming up later today. Clean!
Ala Moana chest high and perfect.
Diamond Head head high and fun.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Hawaii is Reopened

i’m still utilizing the full moonlight to the fullest.  another beautiful morning out in the sea.

today’s morning was different than the others.  it was a lot calmer, and a lot more colors.  and also a lot more waves! 

my goal for foiling is to do the same turns i do on a surfboard.  so now i’m pushing harder and trying to get the foil wings out of the water.  today i pushed as hard as i could with 100% confidence and it felt super good.  part of the wing was coming out on each turn so now i’m going to push it even harder.

you can tell the tourists are back when you see those little green corny things on the road.  haven’t seen them for a while.  i guess Hawaii is reopened!