the tourists are back.  i can tell by watching this charter boat yesterday go in and out of the harbor loaded with tourists.  they drop in 20 fishing lines and rape the ocean floor all day long.  i don’t understand how our government allows.  when i dive out there, all i see is tangled fishing lines, hooks stuck to the reef, and lead weights everywhere.  and to make things worst, absolutely no fish!  it’s a sad way to make money.  i usually say hello to boats that pass by, but not to this one.

the next morning i walked into my sisters house to see if there was anything salvageable.  then i noticed something white on the counter.

omg, her Yeti cup survived the flames!!!  then i found 2 more on the floor that were in perfect condition.  that’s pretty amazing…

Surfing in the dark.  This is my peaceful time…

Good morning 4am.
North shore waist high and perfect.
Ala Moana chest high and perfect.
Diamond Head chest high and fun.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

i actually woke up at 2am this morning because i wanted to foil the moonlight.  it was so clear and so beautiful this morning.

absolutely breathtaking.  i can just watch this and hope it never ends.  foiled a secret spot for a couple hours.  long rides and few people.  after surfing with the crowds for 35 years of my life, it feels amazing to be so free…

the last time i surfed was at Bowls when it was barreling like this.  the barrel is the only reason i still want to short board.  so yes, when the waves get big, i’ll be out there for sure…

also, i got my eyes on my next mission.  i’m going to pump out to the blue water and ride the wind swells for miles.  and i’m going to do it all alone because that’s how i like to connect with the ocean.  can’t wait!