Surfing 101: Sea Urchin

i was surfing with Leo, then this tourist couple comes out and sits right next to us and starts to catch every single wave.  i was annoyed and was going to say something to them but i kept silent.    i kept silent because i knew what was coming up.  the guy would catch a wave, then start standing and walking on the reef.  i told Leo “hey Leo, watch this guy, any minute he will say “ouch!”  Leo didn’t understand what i was saying but i told him “remember i told you not to stand on the reef?”  he said “yes.”  i said “ok, watch what happens.”

on the very next wave, i hear “ouch!!!”  then the guy was looking at his foot.  he stepped on sea urchin!!!  then that was the last wave for him.  i really believe in karma and this was a classic case of it.

Leo asked me if it hurts.  i told him “imagine me poking 20 needles into your foot, then leaving it in.”  haha.  that’s what it feels like.  and the sea urchin is still alive when it’s in your foot.  so the lesson of the day was “hey Leo, learn from other peoples mistakes.”  he said “i’m never stepping on the reef.”  smart boy…

by the way, i usually tell people not to step on the reef but in this situation, silence was golden.  my main goal was to teach this kid not to stand on the reef, and also not to paddle out and try to take every wave.  a little respect will get you far in surfing…

February 14, 2021 Hawaii Surf Report

Happy Valentines Day!

Good morning 4:10am.
North shore 6-8′ and perfect.
Ala Moana knee to waist high and perfect. Bigger than yesterday.
Diamond Head waist to chest high and perfect.
Light winds so nice morning conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Tiger Red

i’m very happy with the art work Jeannie Chesser did on my board. i rode it in the dark this morning and it was glowing.  so cool!  

Leo from the front…

and from the back.  good boy Leo!

these guys were fishing and said their boat sank in seconds?  that’s crazy!!! 

and it landed perfectly straight on the sand bottom.  this is pretty cool!  

i don’t think this would be a good advertisement for this boat brand.  if a boat can sink in seconds perfectly like that, i’d be scared to ride in it.  but the good thing is they will get everything back, including the fishing poles.  lucky…