Traffic Jam @ Ala Moana Bowls…

Good morning 4am.
North shore waist high and clean.
Ala Moana knee to waist high and clean.
Diamond Head chest high and clean.
Light offshore winds on this cool morning.
Afternoon onshore and warm.
Super sunny day.
Going to foil.
Have a wonderful day!

i surfed for 4 days straight this past Christmas swell.  sometimes 2 rounds a day so i’m totally burnt out.  tomorrow i’m going back on my foil because i feel like flying again…

we’ve been having some cool storms passing through.  it’s been windy but when a storm like this comes through, the winds back off and the conditions turn silky smooth…

imagine surfing on a glassy surface like this…

cool to be paddling back out and watching everybody enjoying this swell.

after this girl rode this perfect wave, she paddled out with the biggest smile on her face…

good to see the hotel rooms finally lighting up again.  tourism is coming back slowly but surely…

and no tourists around here.  this is the cleanest salt water pool around.  makes you feel like jumping right in…

when first started surfing Bowls, i hated it.  it was so crowded, people would drop in on me, and i didn’t know how to surf that wave.  so yeah, it took time for me to figure it out, get to know people, and be able to surf that wave properly.  now i love it…

this is one spot on Oahu where it doesn’t matter if you’re a girl.  guys drop in on guys, and guys drop in on girls.  so if you’re expecting a gentleman , go surf somewhere else.  haha…

i’m sitting in the channel with my camera out.  i see this beautiful wave being ridden from the outside by a girl.

i was waiting for her to get closer so i can get the perfect shot.

then i see a guy look at her and start paddling for the wave.

i thought he was going to pull back but i thought wrong.

the guy dropped in, the girl had to straighten out, and i didn’t get the shot.   but i wasn’t surprised at all because this is Bowls.  you either love it, or leave it…