Morning bliss…

Good morning 5:45sm.
North shore 2-3′ and bumpy in the morning.
Ala Moana waist high and clean. Brown stinky water at Bowls.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sun, clouds, sjouwers, and rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

i was sitting on the beach in the pitch dark stargazing.  then this surfer walks my way and freaks out because he couldn’t see me.   haha.  i still don’t know how i actually walk down Diamond Head Cliff’s in the dark.  try hiking by feel, it’s pretty freaky…

can you see Molokai on the left side of the sunrise?  every time i see it, i miss it…

for all the town surfers, you don’t know how lucky you are to have a solid South swell in December…

an Okinawan Christmas.  wish i was there…  thank you Takahashi-san for the photo.

Mt. Fuji with no snow on Christmas day?  what’s going on?  i hope she’s alright…  thank you Takami-san for the photo. 

since i started surfing again, i’ve been in friendly heated conversations with locals about foilers.  some make sense, and some are nonsense.  i will get into that later but i didn’t realize how much surfers hate foilers.  haha.

what do you do on Christmas Day in Hawaii?  one thing we do is make chocolate/peanut butter cups…

made with pure love…  hope you guys had a wonderful Christmas…

on Christmas Eve, the waves were super good in the morning.  i surfed it with a hundred other guys.   then the wind came and it got junk so everybody went in.  then after lunch, i felt the cool North winds at my face, which means offshore!  so i rushed down to Bowls and the waves turned magically perfect!  paddled my fastest out and there were only a few guys out.  see me going for the barrel on this gem?  well, i was on these waves back to back for an hour.  it was the best South shore session at Bowls for me.  and one of the guys out told me that this is the absolute best Bowls can ever get.  it was barreling on every single wave.  i actually thought i was surfing Macaroni’s in the Mentawai’s.  so happy!

then on Christmas morning, i knew it wouldn’t be as good as the Eve so i just went with the flow.  much more people and not even half as good, but i still enjoyed the moment.

Jeannie Chesser with the rainbow…

Troy on a medium size set…

Malcom getting this wave as his Christmas gift.  priceless…  thank you Santa for the beautiful waves!!!