My Christmas Song

hello!  i’m back!  another hack on this Christmas Day.  the third time this month we got hacked so somebody must love us a lot.  haha.  it take it as a compliment when ever something like this happens.   but hey, just got to go with the flow and when we’re back, we’re back.  i ain’t going anywhere…

well, got up early on this beautiful Christmas morning and paddled out in the dark again.  the conditions were very calm and the waves were perfect.  the surprise South swell is still pumping and all us surfers are loving it.  i’ve been back to surfing and loving the feeling.  instead of flying, i feel more connected with the ocean.  stuck to it, riding it, and feeling every single bump along the way.  totally different from foiling, but i love both.

Malcom on his gift from Santa…

anyway, hope you all had a wonderful Christmas day.  i want to wish all my friends and family around the world a very Merry Christmas!  

my all time favorite song goes something like this…

“I’m thinking about my friends, all round the world

wishing them all the best in the calm years

and thank you for the happy times that we spend

may our lives forever, be forever stronger…”

December 24, 2020 Hawaii Surf Report

Merry Christmas EVE!
Good morning 4:20am.
North shore huge! 8-12′ and good. Sunset and Haleiwa!
South swell here! shoulder high and perfect at Ala Moana.
Diamond Head bigger at head high. Perfect conditions everywhere.
Light winds in the morning becoming trade winds later.
Stronger winds tomorrow.
Super sunny and warm.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!

Youth Boating School

when the kids were just kids, i use to make them do everything when i took them diving.  normal uncles would probably do all the hard work, but i just watched and laughed.  i use to always tell them, “this is the way you’re going to learn, by doing it.”  so they would all get together and it would take 4 of them to do a one man job.  haha…fast forward to today, i still sit back and watch.  but no more laughing because they can do everything perfectly.  as Joshua was backing up the boat into the water, i was thinking back on how hard it must have been for him.  if you never done this before, it’s freaking hard!  i’ve seen people bang their boats to the dock, and i also seen peoples whole trucks underwater.  it’s pretty funny until it happens to you.  haha…these kids are watermen so i don’t worry.  if their boat breaks down between islands, i’m pretty sure they can swim back to shore from where ever they are.  the cool thing is the more they go out into the ocean, the more they will learn about it.  and if you can catch dinner in the meantime, that’s just an extra bonus…