Ahhhh!!!!  I’m a happy boy!!!

Good morning 4:30am.
North shore 2-4′ and perfect. Big swell coming again!
Ala Moana chest high and perfect.
Diamond Head shoulder high and perfect.
Clean morning conditions. Afternoon onshore breezes.
Cool morning becoming sunny and warm.
Going to the sunrise.
Have a wonderful day!

after yesterdays short board session, i wanted more.  i didn’t want to share, i just wanted a whole spot to myself.  so when i woke up at 3am this morning, i already knew where i was going…

full throttle!  the wind blowing at my face, the freedom in the ocean, and knowing i’ll be surfing alone.  it’s an epic adrenaline rush…

this is my rehabilitation short board.  it comes between my foil board and my normal shortboard.  i can ride one wave with this board and everything comes back.  so after riding 15 waves this morning, i’m ready for Backdoor/Pipeline now!

as i was coming back, i couldn’t believe how many surfers were out at Bowls.  omg, i almost threw up!  if i surfed here everyday, i’d be getting into fights for sure.  so yeah, surfing secret spots to myself is whats keeping me sane through this pandemic.  thank goodness for that…

the other day, i overheard a guy on the beach saying “where is the South swell?  the surf report said it’s 2-4′”  i was laughing…  when ever we get those false surf reports, there are literally hundreds of surfers waiting for it.  yesterday it finally started to show.  two days later than predicted, but that’s ok.  Troy was waiting in the perfect spot. and when you get a set at Bowls, you’re going to be stoked! bottom turn and setting up for the next maneuver.look at Diamond Head in the background.  i can sit here every morning watching this…did you catch Kelly Slater sticking the middle finger to John John Florence in the semifinals after John John got a good wave?  frustration?  poor sportsmanship?  anyway, goodbye to the old king, and welcome the new one!   i love it!!!