Girls Who Foil…

Good morning 5am.
North shore 1-3′ and good.
New North/West swell on Friday so maybe Pipeline Masters on? Nobody knows. But maybe…
Ala Moana knee high and clean.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sun, showers, and rainbows.
Going sunrise foiling.
Have a wonderful day!

i was waiting at the stoplight this morning and some guy hit my car from behind.  i got out of my car and walked up to his window.  the old man was texting and didn’t even know he hit me!  if he was a young kid i would have said “brah, wake up!!!”  but since he was an old man, i said “sir, please be careful next time.”  then i drove off and took a photo of his license plate just in case my car had damage.  it was too dark so i guess no license plate number.  haha…

once you enter the ocean, you forget about everything.  it was very tranquil and very peaceful.  my body felt super calm and nothing was going to ruin my day…

and the waves were bigger and more consistent than i thought.  so lucky!

when i first started foiling out here, nobody talked to me.  but now, i actually made a few friends out there.  our conversation was about the Japanese tv program “Soko Ga Shiritai.”  one of the boys was telling me how much he loved it.  so did i…

this is probably the best wave to foil in town.  nice long rides and the waves keep on coming and coming.  so i’m constantly flying and flying…

omg, i passed by the Hilton Hawaiian Village on the way out and it was finally open!

all the barriers were taken away so the hotel is officially open!  i heard they opened 2000 rooms for now.  i like forward progress!

after traveling for the past 30 years, i’m loving the slow life here in Hawaii, but i’m surely missing Japan a lot.

i miss chasing typhoons and surfing secret spots with just a few friends.  30 years ago never had the internet or cell phones so you just had to know where to go.  and sometimes you would show up to a spot with nobody around.  i’ve had many sessions like that but those days are over.  i guess i had it pretty dam good…then i’d come in from a surf session in the evening and see something like this.  i love Japanese culture and this is as deep as it gets.  then the long drives across Japan with friends.  taking turns driving, taking turns sleeping, and listening to Neil Diamond the whole way.  this is surf culture and you become like family after trips like this.  and i miss the kids.  every time i’d go back and see them growing and growing.  so yeah, not being able to go to Japan is frustrating for me.  that’s my home, i have family there, i have friends there, and i have the most amazing time when ever i’m there.  when this pandemic is done, i think i might have to live there again to make up for the lost time.  hopefully soon.  missing you JPN…