Tradewinds and Sunsets…

Good morning 4:10am.
North shore 2-4′ with 5′ sets and good. Another perfect Backdoor day.
Ala Moana knee high and perfect.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds back at 20mph.
Sun, clouds, showers, and rainbows.
Going to watch the sunrise.
Have a wonderful day!

 another epic morning on the high tide.  was flying like a bird again and loving it…i watched the Miss Hawaii USA pageant last night on tv.  it came down to these 2 girls.  either could have won because they both looked beautiful and answered the questions very good.  you can’t just be beautiful to represent Hawaii, you have to be smart too.  and the winner was Allison Chu.  she is a model, opera singer, and hula dancer.  oh, she’s a surfer too!  she was also her high schools Valedictorian.  Beauty, Brains, and Talent.  pretty cool!    walked through Beachwalk street in Waikiki at peak time in the evening.  still nobody around…

no news about the Pipeline Masters so that’s bad news to me.  i heard they tested everybody for the coronavirus last Friday and i’m sure if they got the results back already.  heard some officials even left Hawaii already because they didn’t want to get stuck here quarantined during Christmas.  i’m sure Joshua and Seth are super bummed but i’m not.  if you look at the positives, Joshua won the Pipeline Invitational Contest in huge barreling waves.  getting two 9.6’s in any heat is a huge accomplishment, and for it to be in the final making the rest of the competitors requiring 2 waves to take the lead is total domination.  then the next day Joshua beat Gabriel Medina and Adrain DeSousa who are both World Champions.  that was the biggest upset ever.  so if the Pipeline Masters gets cancelled, the top 2 highlights will be both about Joshua.  and everywhere i go, people congratulate me about that.  i’m super proud of that kid…so for now, the boys have to keep in the limelight to make their sponsors and fans happy.  i’ve been seeing a lot of stuff on Seth.  and yesterday the WSL released another video on Seth taking you into the Billabong House on the North Shore.  good to see the boys making waves in the surfing industry…i was talking story in the water with Ronnie Yamada and Kimo Gasper.  i grew up surfing with these guys for the past 35 years at Big Right’s.  these guys surf super good, super respected, and super cool.  we’ve had the greatest memories sharing huge barrels on the South shore for decades.  these guys are like my brothers and i love seeing both in the barrel, and out of the barrel…