Greg Nakamura:  I know what you did last Summer…

Good morning 4:30am.
North shore 3-5′ and good.
Pipeline Masters ON at 12pm today? Really? Maybe!
Ala Moana knee to waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Light South/East winds today.
Sun, clouds, and maybe some rain.
Going to see the golden sunrise.
Have a wonderful day!

this morning was pretty dam amazing again.  in fact, every morning has been pretty dam amazing.  and being a Sunday, i was surprised on how just a few people were out today…

nice chest high waves with perfect Indonesia conditions.

good to see Kona flying on his new board.

my board is working super good.  and i’m finally in tuned with my foil and board setup so i feel like i’m free surfing now.  the only thing that is different it i’m going twice as fast and 5 times the adrenaline rush.  yahoo!!!!

when i first started to foil 3 years ago, i was so frustrated that i would have paid a million dollars to be able to foil like i do now.  so yeah, i feel like a million dollars richer now!!!  haha…

after John’s memorial was all finished yesterday, i went out to Rockpiles because i wanted to catch 3 waves.  one was for Sunny Garcia, one was for Derek Ho, and one was for John Shimooka.  there were lots of surfers in the lineup but i paddled straight to the peak, then caught the first wave that came in, then straight back to the peak, caught wave two, then straight back to peak again to catch wave three.  then i paddled back to Mayuki.  it took 15 minutes to do that.  there is a reason why i caught the 3 waves in a row back to back.   i did it because that’s what those 3 guys did in every lineup around the world.  so it had to be that way to mean anything to them.  haha.  so want to say sorry to the 15 other surfers out at Rockpiles, i usually don’t do that.  i just needed to make my boys smile…