still some very good waves at Ala Moana this morning.  felt good to be on a longboard enjoying the sights and long rides… nice rights and a beautiful rainbow!   Nanami-san is in peace.  she hasn’t surfed for 14 months but she’s super calm now.  i asked her why but she doesn’t know.  haha.  but i love to see her surfing so calm and so good!  along with her 2 boys Gavin and Liam, this is how you’re supposed to enjoy a pandemic!  i just hope we’re not laughing too loud in the ocean.  can’t help because we’re having a wonderful time!  ok, the WSL released the big news today.  i already knew it because i heard it from a competitor.  haha.  anyway, now i can officially say that the 2021 WSL season will start at Pipeline on December 6th!  see you there!!!

a 19 year old family member just bought this book.  it’s called “Why Men Love Bitches.”  when i first saw the title, i was laughing.  then i asked her what it’s about.  she started telling me things that women should and shouldn’t do when it comes to relationships with men.  i was laughing even more.  so i told her “please give me that book after your done because i want to read it too.”  maybe i can learn something because women at any age are impossible to figure out.  haha…

Calm is Cool…

Good morning 5:45am.
North shore chest high and good.
Ala Moana knee to waist high and perfect.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Overhead East swell coming today.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!