Oahu’s Gold Coast…

Good morning 4:20am.
Ala Moana knee to waist high and perfect.
Diamond Head waist to chest high and good.
No wind so perfect morning conditions.
Sun, clouds, and maybe heavy rain later.
Going foiling.
Have a wonderful day!

my magic foil board broke yesterday so i was super sad.  this morning, i rode another one that is too narrow for me so i was kind of nervous paddling out.

and the waves were kind of hollow so the take offs were kind of tricky.  so i get a few waves, made sure i slowed down, and connected with the new board, and also the perfect waves. i felt like i was foiling in slow motion but i’m still going pretty dam fast!

it took me 2 waves and i felt what this board is capable of.  then it was time to step it up and foil the board like how it wants to be foiled.  here i am finishing a backside cutback and setting up to return to the wave.

then i just go for it and hit the white wash.  i felt my foil wing pop out from behind the wave but i stayed focused and completed the maneuver.  so after all, i was nervous for nothing because all i had to do was connect and everything will be alright.  i teach that to my students, but still have to teach myself that.  haha…

the sun popped up and i went in a very happy man.  life in a lockdown is fantastic…

traveling around the world for the past 30 years, it was part of my life.  what i learned the most is how to go with the flow.  from staying at $3/night dirty and dangerous hostels in El Salvador, to $1,500/night luxury private island beach bungalows in the Maldives, all was amazing.  i guess you can say i learned how to live different lives and lifestyles on the road.  from traveling solo, to traveling with friends, i learned how i needed my private space, and i learned how i needed company.  balance was everything.

being stuck here in Hawaii for the past 9 months, i had lots of time to think about things.  my travel life will never be the same.  this world will never be the same.  so as we move forward, going with the flow is the only way.  balance will be more important than ever.  just be normal, just be simple, and just be appreciative.  that’s the way my next 30 years of traveling will be.  and i’m looking forward to starting that new journey…