Wednesday April22日 2026年

October 21, 2020 Hawaii Surf Report

Once again:
never
never
never
give
up

Good morning 4:30am.
Ala Moana knee high and clean.
Diamond Head chest high sets and good.
Light winds so better morning conditions. Afternoon onshore coming.
Sun, clouds, rain, and warm.
Going dawn patrol.
Have a wonderful day!

Traffic at the Cliff

 woke up super early again and was in the water at first light.  beautiful sunsets every morning!   paddled out and i was the only foiler in the water.  the waves were so good!   i was wondering where everybody was???then right when i came in, i saw 10 cars of foilers pull up.  these guys are all my friends so i told them “omg, i’m glad i came in!”  haha…i felt sorry for the surfers in the water.  they must have been so happy when i went in.  BUT, then it got 10x worst.  these black belt martial artists ride every single wave out there and nobody can say anything.  hope you had fun boys!!!

Bye Bye Family, Hello Surfing…

i say this over and over, “if you love something, take care of it.  if you take care of it, it will take care of you.”  so when it comes to Mayuki, i don’t hesitate…this is my 4th boat i’ve owned, but this boat has brought me the most joy.  we’ve already been on many journeys making many memories.  if you’ve ridden her, i’m pretty sure you won’t forget her either…   and now that’s she’s back to perfection, i feel better just knowing that…i miss waking up early in the morning and driving to the beach in Japan.  watching the sunrise while a typhoon off shore is pumping swell right your way.  this is Shikoku, Japan…and i miss watching empty waves because i think it’s more beautiful than getting ridden.  this is a secret spot in Japan.  i would get killed if i said where it was…and when the typhoon swell goes down, it’s family time.  just hanging out with family is the way to ground yourself again.  then once the next typhoon swell hits, it’s bye bye family, i’m going surfing again!  haha…