another golden moment this morning at Diamond Head. the waves were so fun and the sunrise was so amazing. i felt like a free bird panning over the ocean. an amazing feeling…
i’m pretty sure this was the best spot of the morning. it was hard to come in…
good to see Matsu and Toda-san hanging out in Shonan. gosh, i wish i was there with them!!! i’m pretty sure they’re foiling much better than before too.
and to see Nao-san living the Shonan surfer girl life is cool. i’m still amazed on how far this girl has come. she’s living the free lifestyle…
and because everybody else is getting better at foiling, i’ve been practicing too. i don’t care about pumping the foil around anymore, all i care about is surfing my foil like how i surf my shortboard.
and when i do an off the lip on a waist high wave, it feels like it’s a 10′ wave. so i’m surfing huge waves everyday! haha…
every time i go surfing, i’m always watching people surf. and when i see a really good wave ridden, it kind of makes me happy. so when i seen this girl all alone on one of the best waves of the day, i was waiting to see what she’s going to do…
she was setting up her turn right here. see her left arm, it’s turning inwards so everything else will follow very soon.
and there it is! a very nice turn with beautiful style. this was at Diamond Head yesterday and i hope this photo gets to her somehow.
the way a foil works underwater is a science. every little millimeter or every little angle will affect the way it performs. i’m trying to make my foiler even faster than it is. i’m always trimming things and testing things out. my goal is to surf waves better than i can surf it on my shortboard. i’m a far way from that, but i can feel it coming together…
the further i can put my board on the rail, the faster i will go. i’m learning so much thanks to this pandemic. when this is all over, i’m going to travel the world with my foil and experience waves like i’ve never did before. and that’s so exciting!
Every morning routine…
