i can see things happening before they happen.  i’m paddling out watching 4 people paddling for the same wave.  the girl on the right side, she’s a beginner so keep your eye on her.  of course she’s not looking back because obviously she hasn’t been taught the right way.  so yeah, it can be very dangerous.then the wave pushes her and she panics.  grabs the rail and can’t stop.  the longboard girl behind her is standing up already riding still doesn’t see her.  now the beginner can’t stop and is basically hanging on for her life.  this is where i’m thinking “omg, this could get ugly.”  luckily the longboard girl finally sees the beginner, but keeps on going in her direction.  then the beginners surfboard starts to go under water.  this is creating her surfboard into a slingshot.  it will fly somewhere very soon.right after i took this photo, i seen the longboard go over the girls head.  good thing she ducked or it would have been a knock out blow to the head.

so in this situation, 2 things went wrong.  one was the beginner girl shouldn’t have even been out there.  the waves were way out of her league.  second, the longboarder girl that was riding the wave should have just gone straight, instead of turning in the direction of the beginner.  you don’t want to take chances in this situation because nobody wins.  so my advise is for both of these girls to take a surf lesson.  it might save their lives one day…

Perfect morning conditions continue…

Good morning 4:15am.
Ala Moana chest high and perfect.
Diamond Head head high and good.
Trade winds at 10mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

this is the reward for getting up early and being in the ocean.  it’s been picture perfect every single morning.  this morning, it was no different…

the waves have been good for lonboarding, shortboarding, and even foiling.  i guess you can say everybody is happy…

there were some head high sets at Bowls.  when i’m paddling out, i always like to watch the near accidents.  in this case, a guy practically running over a girl.  omg!

i chose to surf my shortboard today.  i caught 5 waves which took an hour.  if i chose my foil, i would have caught 20 waves in an hour.  so i know what i’ll be riding tomorrow…

passed by Diamond Head on the way home.  it was overhead and very good.

only a few surfers out having a blast on this late season swell.  tomorrow will also be good for sure.  see you out there!