Last South swell of 2020?

Good morning 4:10am.

Ala Moana chest high and perfect.

Diamond Head head high and good.

Light winds so perfect morning conditions.

Sunny and warm.

Going foiling.

Have a wonderful day!

paddled out in the dark to Bowls this morning.  waves were good and felt amazing catching one in the pitch dark.  then as soon as it got lighted, there were 20 guys out.   always stoked to surf with Lance.  a super cool guy…took this sequence while i was yelling “go Lance!”  super nice off the top!then super calm getting ready for another turn.nice wave, and nice guy!i can’t believe i surfed my shortboard for 2 days in a row!   had lots of fun but i really miss my foil!

leaving the harbor in the dark not knowing what to expect is exciting.  you have to put your mind to just go with the flow and appreciate anything Mother Nature gives you.  so yeah, you can feel the excitement in the air…and on the way out, you’re just mesmerized.  totally speechless as you watch the day begin…and once you can see the waves, that’s when your heart starts to beat faster.  and when absolutely nobody is out, you feel like screaming “FREEDOM!!!”  and i do that a lot.  haha…somebody asked me how Three’s is.  well, it’s the best right point break on the South shore.  best swell is out of the South/West, and best tide is medium.  on a good day, there’s usually 30-60 surfers out.  BUT, if you know how to time it right, you can surf it all by yourself.  and i will never tell you what time that is.  haha…i can pull Mayuki right up and take photos from the channel.  and i can also cheer my friends on when they’re getting barreled!passed by the Hilton again and it’s still very quiet.  i like quiet, but this is kind of creepy quiet…