Back on Cloud 9

just passed by the Hilton Hawaiian Village and there is no sign of things getting back to normal.  yes, Hawaii will open up on October 15th, but we shall see what happens…

Naosan won’t let the lockdown stop her from living the surfers lifestyle.  this is how you do it in Shonan…

i’ve been waiting for my new toy and it finally came.  don’t ask me how much it cost because this stuff isn’t cheap.  but i’d pay anything to fly faster than i already am…

i went to Bowls this morning at 5:20am and the parking lot was already full!  surfing is booming in Hawaii!

i’m so happy to be back on the Cloud IX!

Life of Bula…

there was a big Hawaiian surfer who use to hang out under this tree everyday.  always super nice to me and always giving everybody the aloha.  well, i just found out he was riding his bike on the North Shore and somebody hit him with their car, and ran away.  so my friend Bula is dead, and the girl who hit him still didn’t get caught.  i was so sad to hear that.  it’s so crazy how someones life can end so fast.  Bula always would take his daughter surfing on his board and i will miss their smiles….so now is a new day.  everyday i appreciate things, but now i appreciate things even more.  so waking up and maximizing each day to the fullest is the way i’m going to live out the rest of my life…and now i have motivation to shoot photos, and take my family surfing when ever they want to.  and to see the happy smiles of my friends is super precious.  always good to see Mari-chan!  this is the last wave of my morning.  happy to be in the ocean, and happy to be alive…and this is my last wave of the day in the evening.  just happy to live another day…

September 19, 2020 Hawaii Surf Report

Life in a Bikini…

Good morning 4:40am.
Ala Moana waist with chest high sets and good.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Trade winds at 20mph. Getting more windy this afternoon.
High tide morning.
Sunny and warm.
Going foiling.
Have a wonderful day!