i went to get my flu shot.  usually i don’t care about getting it but this year isn’t usual.  so to be safe, i got it…been foiling at Bowls and it’s been super crowded.  when it gets small like this, the longboarders come out…and it’s pretty crazy at times.  i’d never thought Bowls would ever get like this.  but thanks to the coronavirus, it’s worst than Waikiki…but if you’re a local and know the wave, you will get waves like this.  this is perfect!the past 2 days, i seen John John Florence coming in on his sailboat.  what a cool time to own a sailboat like this.  i’d never come back to Hawaii until this pandemic is all over.   i’d be sailing the Pacific Ocean…even thought it’s super crowded, i’m happy to see everybody enjoying the surf.  this is the best way to say happy and healthy!

i wanted to get some good exercise so i started off at Kaisers.  caught a few there and then pumped my foil to Rockpiles.  when i get to Rockpiles, a nice set came right to me.  this guy was trying to catch it but i knew he was on the wrong side of the reef so he wouldn’t make it.  i turn around and this was my best wave of the day.  i teach my students to always be ready and alert because you better be ready if someone misses the wave or falls.  and that happens a lot.   so take another surfers loss and turn it into your gain.  got it?  the water has been super clean.  good to see the fish enjoying the peaceful life.  then got to Bowls and it was so beautiful.  so surfing 3 spots in a 2 hour session is healthy and happy.  i got to see different waves, different people, and feel a different vibe. loved all of it so i’ll be doing that more often…

Banzai!

Good morning 4:10am.

Ala Moana waist high and perfect.

Diamond Head chest high and good.

Trade winds at 20mph.

Sunny and warm.

Going dawn patrol.

Have a wonderful day!