i watched this program on TV called Riss. it’s a documentary about Carrisa Moore. it shows her following her dreams as a child and achieving all of them, and even more. 
the first time i saw Carissa surf was when she was 8 years old. her dad was pushing her into waves at Diamond Head and i was super impressed. this little girl with the cutest smile, and most of all, the best style i’ve ever seen. she was always happy, and always determined. 
throughout the years, i saw her and her Father training all over Hawaii. i watched his style of coaching and i watched her style of learning. i saw her happy, and i also saw her sad. in fact, i’ve seen Carissa crying more than a few times. that made her stronger and wanting even more. i could see the fire in this girl and now after 3 World Champions, she proved that hard work pays off. but what i learned most was watching how her Father coached her. i’ve made more than a few of my students cry and i really felt bad at the time. if you want to get good, you have to see the bottom before you can get to the top. so yeah, sorry for making you cry if i ever did. but i don’t regret that at all. haha…
watch this film and hope you can get inspired and become your own champion!
Our new little South swell! Happiness at Bowls!
i was foiling out at Bowls and a guy was taking photos and selling them. he told me to go check out his website so i did. of course i could have downloaded it for free but i paid instead. i didn’t really need these photos but i know how it feels to work hard taking photos in the sun and have some random guy come and ask for free photos. haha. i use to do that as my job so i’ve seen and heard every story possible. the bottom line is camera gear cost about $5,000 and people don’t spend that kind of money to go out and shoot free photos. so please support these kind of guys and just pay for it. simple… anyway, here i am dropping in a guy. haha. 
i don’t feel bad dropping in because once i stand up, there’s no way you will catch me. 
check out that kids face who’s probably tripping out and seeing a foil for the first time. i bet he went home and asked his Mom for one. 
i always get asked the feeling of foiling. on this particular waist high wave, i feel like i’m doing an off the lip on a 10′ wave. so the next time you catch a wave where ever you are, try to imagine that feeling 10x more. that’s how i feel on every wave…
and imaging riding a wave and pumping back out to the exact same spot you caught the wave. now that’s what you call convenience… can’t wait to do this again!
