since i haven’t been able to travel and have so much free time, i finally have the chance of looking back and reminiscing.  a million memories throughout the past 30 years of traveling around the world.  most of those memories with this man who showed me and taught me about the world, Tokura-san!  every single boat trip we have sashimi parties.  while the boys surf, i go dive.  everybody’s happy during Bintang beer time.  for the 12 day boat trip, you won’t eat that much sashimi in your life! and waking up the next morning and looking at waves like this outside the little window from the boat.  this is HT’s and i’ve got some of the best barrels in my life out there.  these smaller ones that break over the shallow razor sharp reef are the best, but also the most riskiest.  there are no hospitals around here.  in fact, the closest one is 12 hours away by boat.  kind of scary when i think about it now.  but when i’m in the barrel, getting hurt is the last thing on my mind…check out these 4 Mike Woo foil boards getting glassed right now in Bali.  2 are for Matsu, and 2 are for me.  almost done and i can’t wait to get them!!!

The Best Front Row Seat…

Good morning 4am.

Ala Moana waist high and perfect.

Diamond Head chest high and good.

Trade winds at 15mph.

Sunny and warm.

Going to the ocean.

Have a wonderful day!

i foiled around noon today, then came home for a nap, then waited for the golden evening session at Diamond Head!  i wasn’t the only one who waited because there was no parking!

i couldn’t believe how good the waves were!  i didn’t know whether to take out my foil or surfboard.  the waves we super long and perfect!

got down to one of the most beautiful beaches in Hawaii.  it’s always empty down here.

i chose to foil because when i was watching the waves, i saw 2 seabirds flying back to Black Point and it made me want to fly too!

i was paddling out watching the amazing sunset with surfers enjoying the last moments of the day.

i foiled 4 waves, rode the last one to the beach, and now i’m my warm home at 7pm.  going to eat a quick one and sleep before 8pm.  same thing tomorrow!  goodnight…