i watched a movie called “Ip Man.”  it’s a true kung fu story based on the life of a grandmaster of Wing Chun, who was also the teacher of Bruce Lee.  there are 4 parts and i was hooked on all of them.  and when Bruce Lee came out with his nunchuku, i got super excited!  when i was a kid, i had my own nunchuku and use to copy Bruce Lee. and i use to do this exact pose, and make this exact same face.  haha.  i even kept my nunchaku in my car just in case i got into a fight.  and i still have them till this day.  not in my car though…back to “My Octopus Teacher” documentary.   in the end, something the man said made lots of sense.   he said “You go into the water…”“and it’s extremely liberating.”“All your…”“worries and problems and life drama just dissolve.”  he was on pinpoint because that’s exactly how i feel when i’m in the water.”  and when i’m foiling my last wave all the way to the beach, it’s the same feeling.  my worries, problems, and life dramas just dissolve…

Gliding Gracefully…

Good morning 3:45am.

Ala Moana chest high and perfect.

Diamond Head head high and good.

Trade winds at 20mph.

Sunny and warm.

Going foiling.

Have a wonderful day!

the waves were pumping today!  i timed it exactly like yesterday because i thought it would be uncrowded again.  well, i was wrong.  haha.  there were surfers everywhere!but when you go to Bowls, it doesn’t matter how crowded it is.  only a few can get the good waves.  i took my foil today and caught a couple big sets!  i swear i felt like i surfed 10′ Pipeline!  my adrenaline rush was as high as it gets…  seen my friend Trinko out.  always nice to see him. Trinko is in his 60’s and surfing like a teenager.everybody asks me if i still surf.  now i say “what?  i’m surfing right now.  the only difference is i have a bigger fin than you guys.”  haha…  anyway, i’ve been practicing my round house cutbacks.  it starts off like this.and now i can cutback and hit the white water and complete the full round house.  it feels so good!