Locals Only having fun at Bowls yesterday!  Everybody happy and healthy!!!

Yesterday’s Bowls shot of the day!  So sweet!

Good morning 3:10am.

New South swell!

Chest to shoulder high and perfect at Bowls.

Overhead and bumpy at Diamond Head.

Light trade winds at 15mph now so go early.

Sunny and warm.

I’m going surfing!

Have a wonderful day!

was heading out to the North Shore at 5am.  i was thinking “go out there and foil one session, or stay in town and possible foil 2 sessions?”  took the next exit and did a U-Turn.  best decision of my life…

omg, i paddled out at dark again and Diamond Head was so good!  only 1 guy out for a while and we had the whole ocean to ourselves.  i was telling him about my U-turn story.  he looked at me like i was crazy.  haha.

foiled until he sunrise and i was totally satisfied!

the sky was so blue!

kind of cool looking at Waikiki from this angle.  in the dark, you could see 3 big hearts lighted up on the hotels.

then straight after that, i headed to Bowls.  i had a feeling it was going to be really good and most of the morning crew would be going in.  right when i got out, i swear i saw 15 locals paddling in.  perfect timing!

and omg, the waves were super good!  shoulder high sets and absolutely perfect.  i was foiling these waves and every time i took off, i felt like i was taking off at 10′ Pipeline!  so exciting and no wipeouts today!  so happy!