the South swell is gone, but the memories of it is still here.  Kainoa Mcgee at Bowls…i was paddling out and seen Hiro-san get the wave of the day.  i was yelling as he was flying down the line…then he did a cutback in front of me and the spray shot into my face.  it was sore!this is power surfing.  Kekoa Bacalso setting up for the biggest turn i’ve seen in a long time.  and when he hit the lip, there was 10′ of sprays.  look how beautiful this is!  power surfing will never die…

Flying into Lockdown…

Good morning 4am.

Ala Moana knee high and perfect.

Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.

Trade winds at 20mph.

Sunny and warm.

Going to train and foil.

Have a wonderful day!

was going through some photos from Bali.  Bol was one of the top kids there.  now, he’s a legend…

i was looking forward to more boat trips to one of the best foiling spots ever.  that will have to wait for now…

hire your private boat with driver and have him tow you around and around.  then when you feel like pumping into a big one, simply let go of the rope and have the ride of your life!

Tony Moniz @ Secret Foiling Island outside of Bali…

but since i’m stuck here in Hawaii, i’ll keep practicing and keep riding wave after wave.  those 3 surfers were trying to catch this wave but when they seen me flying down the line, they all pulled back.  smart guys!  and thank you guys!  thank goodness for foiling because if it wasn’t for that, i’d be totally bored.  but instead of bored, i feel more like reborn…