i haven’t been to Diamond Head in a while so i was excited to go foil there today. when i pulled up, there were only a few surfers out. it was awesome to be in such a big ocean today! i love it…
i film everything. i film good rides, and i film heavy wipeouts. when you’re on a foil, the wipeouts are 10x more dramatic than a shortboard. wiping out on a waist high wave feels like wiping out on a 10′ wave at Pipeline. 
so when you paddle for a wave on a foil, you have to commit 100% or else this could happen. same thing as Pipeline. so yeah, commitment is the key to preventing wipeouts. but to be honest, i wipeout like this all the time on my foil and it actually feels good. it’s better than a morning cup of coffee. haha…
i was sitting in my truck watching the waves for an hour. i was thinking how beautiful it was. we are experiencing something we’ve never did before but if you look at the change, it’s pretty dam good…
for example, for the first time, the turtles are hatching right on the beach! people that visit Bellows everyday haven’t seen that ever in their lifetime. and i heard Hanuama Bay has 42% clearer water with bigger fish and monk seals on the beach. wow!
another good thing is lots of people are exercising now. look at the new Tomami-san! she lost a lot of weight and is ready to tandem surf! 
and the elder generation is exercising in the ocean staying healthy and happy. i’ve never seen so many people surfing, swimming, paddling, jogging, and just simply walking. a lot of healthier people means happier people…
Small but fun…
