Welcome to Kaimuki!  I love it!

Good morning 4am.

Ala Moana waist to chest high and perfect.

Diamond Head chest high and good.

New South swell tomorrow!

Light trade winds at 15mph.

Sunny and warm.

Going 2 rounds.

Have a wonderful day!

it feels so weird passing by the Hilton Hawaiian Village and seeing this.  it’s like a ghost town.  usually there are tour busses lined up every morning taking hundreds of tourists around the island.  now, there is nothing and nobody.  i pass by there every morning wondering if things will ever get back to normal… been doing 2 rounds of foiling these past days.  one early morning at Bowls in the dark.  and another one in the afternoon at Kaisers.  want to thank my friend Robbie for taking these clips…nobody staying at the hotel, nobody on the beaches, but hundreds of surfers out front in the ocean.  the lockdown is extended until October 1st.  we shall see.  but in the meantime, please wear your mask everywhere!  i heard a lady got a $5,000 ticket putting gas in her car without a mask.  OMG!  one beautiful thing about this pandemic is no traffic anymore.  i can drive anywhere at anytime and get there pretty quickly.  please drive safely everyone!

 there are 2 of these self driven ocean drones docked at the Yacht Club.  i wonder where it will go to next?  i just planted my organic Christmas tree!  look how cute it is!!!been surfing and foiling at different places recently.  different wave, different vibe, and different connection.  i love different…been looking through old photos i had in one of my folders.  Indonesian Timmy Wau and i fooling around on a boat floating somewhere in the Indian Ocean.  i think this was 15 years ago… when ever i travel, i love to watch kids playing.  this particular time was in the Philippines.  it was in a really dirty river that smelt pretty bad.  i saw fishermen cleaning fish and throwing the guts in the river, i saw ladies washing laundry in the river, people taking baths, and i even seen some people using the restroom in the river.  it’s just part of the culture and you just have to understand that’s how it is and was for centuries.  but the thing that stood out most is the kids swimming around with the happiest faces ever.  no cellular phones, no tv, and no stress.  they looked so free, so happy, and so pure.  it’s so good to see that…