5 surfers on one wave is the norm these days.  just to paddle out to Bowls, you have to pass by Inbetweens.  filled with beginners and longboard girls so it’s like driving on the opposite side of the freeway.  dodging people and praying not to get run over.  that’s why nobody can complain out there when i foil because if they do, i can just say “eh, you’re more dangerous than me.”  haha…driving home and found out there was a screwdriver in my tire!  OMG, air was leaking out and i’m not even sure how long it was like this.  thank goodness i learned on the job how to fix a flat tire from working at a gas station.  so i always keep the repair kit in the car…in less than 5 minutes, i can fix any tire.  so easy…so happy to see Mai-chan over at Nishizeko-san’s surf shop in Ise.  omg, Mai-chan is pregnant!!!  so happy for her!  congratulations girl!

i was getting texts from Jeannie Chesser.  she was flipping through her old Surfer magazines and came across a couple photos.  i’d have to say that Local Motion had the best Pro and Amateur team back in the 1980’s.  and there was only one female surfer on the team, which was Jeannie Chesser.  she’s the 6th person from the left.  and the far left is Team Captain Tony Moniz.  classic…then Jeannie sent me this one.  haha.  i was only 21 years old at the time.  surfing everyday while going to college.

**when i told Jeannie that i don’t even remember that photo, she told me she didn’t remember hers too.  haha…

Epic Bowls Rights…

Good morning ４am.

Ala Moana chest high and perfect.

Diamond Head shoulder high and good.

Trade winds at 20mph.

Sunny and warm.

Going dawn patrol.

Have a wonderful day!