with so many surfers on the island surfing now, it’s almost impossible to surf places with nobody out. so yesterday was pretty dam lucky for us. that’s Carter probably thinking the same thing. you won’t see Diamond Head like this very often…
Carter took off on a wave and was flying. timing was everything!
then i paddle out this morning and it was dark again. i can’t even see 5′ ahead but i can feel the fresh air blowing in my face. caught my first wave in the dark and rode it screaming. i’m sure i woke up the people living in the houses in front because it was still 5am. haha.
then after that, i grab my shortboard and go surf the new swell at Bowls. Momotaro and i having a great time!
i’m not sure which i like better, surfing or foiling. but the cool thing is i can do both in the same day. stay tuned because i think we’re getting a 30 day lockdown coming up very soon. so get as many waves as you can while you can…
seems like we are going into lockdown again so expect record crowds at every surf point. full parking lots and surfers everywhere you look…
i’ve been going out to Bowls in complete disbelief. there are just way too many people out making it kind of dangerous. five guys per wave and if you don’t pay attention, you will get hurt. it’s kind of crazy…
then you have a rare right at Bowls and see 3 guys on the same wave. really? 
i guess that’s why we’ve been foiling so much recently. while there are 100 surfers at the next spot over fighting for waves, we are just flying around like free birds. Kaiborg is the eagle…
This is Beautiful Surfing…
