paddled out this morning before the sunrise. foiled with a couple guys. compared to yesterday, it was empty…
then this afternoon i check the cameras and OMG! there were so many surfers out at Rockpiles!!! i’ve never seen it like this before! i hope the Governor doesn’t see this because he will close the ocean for sure! 
then i checked Bowls and it was crowded too! Kaisers packed too! here is what i counted:
86 surfers at Rockpiles
67 surfers at Kaisers
51 surfers at Bowls
luckily, Carter and i went foiling this afternoon at our little spot near Diamond Head. i heard yesterday had 40 guys out, but today there were only 3 longboard girls out. so i guess we chose the right spot because compared to everywhere else, it felt like we were on some secluded island of Indonesia. i’m wondering what tomorrow will bring…
ok, if i were to tell you to choose a board, which would you choose? i bet you chose the one on the left because it looks newer right? anyway, i asked Reef which board he liked and like most of you, he chose the one on the left. then i told him, “when you have a chance to get a pro surfers used board, always pick the uglier one. the one that’s turning yellow and has lots of dings. there is a reason for that. and that reason is because it was probably magic so he rode it more, and kept it longer!” 
so i see Reef paddling out. something was different. he looked more confident, and more cool. instead of waiting in the inside for leftovers, he went straight to the outside waiting for sets. it was super cool to see that…
then he paddled into a set, did a bottom turn, and flew down the wave. this kid is ripping!
watch out for this kid. he will only get better and braver. and the fact that he’s such a little gentlemen, it makes him look even better!
Yesterday afternoon @ Bowls. Blue sky and perfect waves…
