Peace to Craziness!!!

it started off so peaceful today!   i paddled out in the dark again and foiled until the sun rose.  birds flying, and so was i!  i looked at the moon above Diamond Head and thought what a beautiful world we live in.  at this moment, there was nowhere else i’d rather be…

then the boys started coming out one by one.  all very kind and respectful guys out there for the same reason, which is to have fun.  here is Fred on an early morning flyby…

then i wanted to foil again so i paddled out to Bowls this afternoon.  the total opposite of this morning!  OMG, it was craziness.  there were 10 guys fighting for every wave that came in.  hungry surfers going wild!  i caught 5 waves and went in before i went crazy too…

i grew up surfing contests with Isaac Kaneshiro.  he was a total dark horse.  super good surfer but very quiet.  when Kelly Slater was unbeatable, Isaac beat him in a man to man heat in France.  then the world knew who he was.  it was so cool to see!

My Little Yogi…

 Mateus slept over last night again so after we watered the plants, we came inside to play.  then he says “Unko Kirby, watch this!”  i was wondering what he was doing??? then he just popped up and did the most perfect head stand!  omg!  he held it there and i was in awe.  i can tell he’s been practicing a lot because nobody can just pop a headstand like this.  he made it look so easy too!  then Mateus got out his new game that’s called “Bakugan.”  he was teaching me how to play it and it was actually pretty cool.  i wonder if this game is from Japan?  anyway, i lost.  haha…

thanks to the coronavirus, i got to spend another wonderful day with Mateus.  next time he said he wants to go on Mayuki.  sure thing!

August 16, 2020 Hawaii Surf Report

Blue Hawaii…

Good morning 4:20am.

Ala Moana waist to chest high and good.

Diamond Head shoulder high and good.

Light winds so nice morning conditions.

Going foiling.

Have a wonderful day!