Americans Not Welcomed…

hope you enjoyed the last day of parks and beaches being open.  starting tomorrow, this will all be closed.   and from what i heard, the police will not be giving warnings anymore.  they will arrest you!

so happy to see Asayama-san enjoying life in Japan.  i sure miss him!

and his garden is looking super green too!

i paddled out this morning in the dark again.  birds flying, dolphins passing, epic waves, and a nice rainbow at the end.  today was a huge foil day for me because i did something i’ve never done before.  i actually did a huge cutback and hit the lip on the way back.  it felt so good!!!

according to the world, Americans aren’t welcomed almost anywhere.  so i guess i’ll be continuing my simple life of training, surfing, foiling, and being happy.  i sure ain’t complaining…

University of Hawaii ’92

can’t wait to watch the contest on Sunday, August 9th!  it’s at the Ranch wave pool and Seth Moniz and Carissa Moore are teaming up!  go Hawaii!the other day i paddled out to Bowls before 5am.  nobody was in the ocean so it was like black paradise.  you couldn’t see a thing except for the moonlight shining off the ocean surface.  riding a wave in complete darkness is the best feeling in the world!  and watching the moon set to the West and the sun rises from the East.  it’s surreal…then yesterday morning i paddle out to Diamond Head in the dark too.  birds flying high, dolphins passing by, and epic long rides.  this has been my everyday ritual…Lance was in a few of my classes at the University of Hawaii.  we were talking about the good old college days.  Lance told me that one of our teachers knew i was surfing when i didn’t show up for class.  haha.  i remember going to college with surf trunks, bleached hair that was still wet, and sand still on my feet.  till this day, we still don’t know how i graduated.  haha…

August 7, 2020 Hawaii Surf Report

Keep Out:  This is Our Little Playground…

Good morning 4am.

Ala Moana chest high and perfect.

Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.

Trade winds at 20mph.

Sun, clouds, showers, and rainbows.

Going dawn patrol.

Have a wonderful day!