my Mom just got the house painted inside and out. and it looks really nice! check out Koko Head in the back. i still can’t believe our family of 5 all lived in this house.
since the lockdown, baseball got cancelled. so right as Mateus started practice, the season ended. he already ordered his new uniform so he put it on for this photo. i really feel sorry that the kids can’t play with each other for the past 4 months, but at the same time, it gave us way more family time then we expected. so yes, there are a lot of positive things coming out of this situation. and with 41 more people in Hawaii infected today, i don’t think August 1st we will reopen. i have a feeling that things will close up again. bummer…
gosh, every since the coronavirus started, i woke up early and was in the ocean before every single sunrise. that’s almost 4 months!!! i really wanted to keep positive throughout this whole lockdown thing so i told myself to keep healthy, happy, and in the ocean every single day. and now i have a whole group of guys that i foil with everyday makes it more exciting. driving at anywhere at anytime is what we do. and this particular day was on the North Shore. this is Kaiborg’s home ground…
then when the South Shore turns on, the boys come to my home grounds. there are plenty of spots near my house to make us happy. here is Peter King flowing like a bird…
then when the West side turns on, it’s 45 minutes away which is right in the middle of us. so when we leave, we arrive at the exact same time. you wouldn’t want to be late or you will miss moments like this…
Rikita-san sent me these photos off @peterkingphoto instagram. i can’t see it so Rikita-san knows that and sends it to me. @kaiborggarcia in the front and me in the back. this wave we rode 600 meters long…
usually i’m taking all the photos so it’s nice to see a photo of myself. taken by a professional, Peter captured the moment i try to explain to my friends. i’m literally taking off on the full moon behind me, and foiling right into the sunrise. so the sky starts off purple, then ends up gold. i’m flying, i’m feeling so free, and there couldn’t be a better place in the world at this moment. i’m totally connected with the ocean, and i’m totally connected with life right now. so thank you boys for these lifetime memories in the making…
Diamond Head Surfer Girl…
