I’d rather look back at my life and say,

“I can’t believe I did that!”

Instead of saying,

“I wish I did that…”

So stop dreaming and “DO IT!”

Foiling is Freedom…

Good morning 5:10am.

Ala Moana chest high sets and morning sickness.  Better later.

Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.

Trade winds at 20mph.

Clouds, sun, and showers.

Going to search for the perfect wave.

Have a wonderful day!

i surfed Bowls this morning.  crowded, junky, and i only got 1 good wave.  satisfying, but nothing special.  i needed more so i jumped on Mayuki and went to look for a wave to foil.  nobody, epic, and i got 10 perfect waves.  very satisfying and ultra special… it was Donald’s first time on Mayuki and i’m sure not his last.  we looked at all the spots and it was crowded.  then we pulled up to Pop’s and there were only 3 guys out!!!  the waves were perfect so that’s where we anchored.  we were super excited like kids…then the 3 guys went in and it was only us!  taking turns on perfect head right rights and loving life.  check out Donald go!we were also riding together and screaming like little kids…i’ve never in my entire lifetime surfed good Pop’s with nobody out.  it’s hard to believe that this is were surfing was born, and nobody was anywhere to be found.  Donald said “this is like a dream.  this is how it use to be during the Duke Kahanamoku days.”  i think he’s right…i got super sunburnt but who cares.  we had the time of our lives and none of us will forget our special super session today.  after we came in, Donald said his throat was hurting because he was yelling too much.  mine too.  haha.  this was one of my Top 5 foil sessions in my life.  we pay thousands of dollars to go on boat trips half way around the world for sessions like this.  today, it was literally right in our back yard…