Round 1:  Ala Moana Bowls 5:10-7:00am.  3-5′ and good.

Round 2:  Big Rights 12-4:20pm.  3-5′ and perfect.

20 waves ridden today.  12 barrels.  so happy.  and so sleepy.  goodnight…

Donald let me try his board and it was kind of scary.  first, it was too narrow, and second, i was using a foil i’m not use to.  oh, and third, i forgot a leash.  so i played it very safe and lucky nobody was out.  but if you bend your knees, look forward, and keep calm, you will succeed on everything you try.it’s always a challenge for me to try something different.  i like challenges so if you let me try your surfboard, i’ll probably try it.  if i don’t like it, i will give it back to you right away.  if i like it, i will keep it forever.  haha…imagine catching a perfect wave, doing a few cutbacks, then kicking out and pumping back out to an endless sea.  imagine no more…last.  if you’re expecting some precious cargo from China, i hope you had insurance…

My private swim with the Whale Shark:  Maldives…

Good morning 4:20am.

Ala Moana overhead and perfect.

Waikiki head high and perfect.

Diamond Head overhead and bumpy.

Trade winds at 20mph.

Sunny and warm.

Going to get barreled!

Have a wonderful day!