Surfers stealing from Surfers…

very sad to see people looting shops around America.  especially sad to see a Patagonia store in Santa Monica being totally looted!

guys stealing surfboards too?  just by the way these guy are holding the surfboards, i can tell they’re surfers.  sad to see surfers stealing from surfers…

meanwhile, the boys are in the mountains in on the E-Bikes…

meanwhile, i’m trying to get a haircut since they just reopened, but the guy told me to call back next month because they are fully booked.  omg!

came home and my brother dropped off some fresh akule.  dinner time!  have a wonderful evening…

Mentally Calm

for the past 3 months, i’ve been really in a good place mentally.  been surfing a lot, foiling a lot, diving a lot, training a lot, yoga a lot, home repairs a lot, and hanging out with positive people a lot.  i don’t do any type of social media, i don’t look at social media, so i’m kind of in my own world.  and it’s freaking amazing!  my dream was always to simplify my life and now it’s happening.  eating healthy, living healthy, and keeping happy.  with so many negative things are happening in this world, all we can do is keep positive and live each day like it’s your last.  it works!  so go out and have the best day of your life…

June 2, 2020 Hawaii Surf Report

Paradise never lost…

Good morning 5:15am.

Ala Moana shoulder high and good.

Diamond Head head high and bumpy.

Waikiki chest high and perfect.

Trade winds at 20mph.

Sunny and warm.

Going surfing.

Have a wonderful day!