Boys just wanna have fun…

Good morning 4:40am.

North shore waist high and fun.

Ala Moana knee high and clean.

Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.

Trade winds at 25mph.

Sunny and warm.

Going exercise and exercise.

Have a wonderful day!

i was watching the waves today out in Hawaii Kai and saw a convoy of mopeds and motorcycles pass by.  so i was watching the cool bikes then all of a sudden, 2 guys crashed into each other, and then more and more crashed into each other.  i was in shock watching it happen right there and it seemed like everything was in slow motion…most guys weren’t wearing a helmet so i thought somebody died.  luckily, only minor injuries and a trip to the hospital.  i was actually going to ride my bike again this afternoon around town, but after i saw the guys bleeding and hurt, i changed my mind.  instead, Mateus asked me to take him surfing so he jumped in my car and we went surfing.  we had a blast!  rode super long waves and enjoyed this beautiful warm Sunday…then we stayed out and swam outside by the red buoy.  Mateus told me he had so much fun and wants to surf everyday.  haha.  but he also said he misses school so much.  poor kid…

anyway, that was our Sunday.  tomorrow we’ll so something different…

when ever i’m free diving, i’m in my realm.  it’s like i instantly slipped into a dream.  i’m at total peace, and my mind is as calm as it gets.  this is where i can separate myself from other people and totally connect with the sea.  you can call me an asshole, you can yell at me, and you can even try to punch me.  and i wouldn’t even flinch.  nothing bothers me when i’m free diving…when i get ready for a deep dive, i always position my body like this.  i want to be as vertical as possible so i draw an imaginary straight line from top to bottom and that’s how i get there.  less distance and less energy equals more bottom time.then when i’m laying flat on the bottom, i close my eyes for the first 5 seconds and let the fish come close.  then when i open my eyes, i look at the variety and choose what i want to eat for dinner.  i’m very selective when i hunt fish.  i can actually picture it on the dinner table before i spear it.  and once i get what i need, that’s all i’m taking…