what do teenagers do during lockdown?  well, these girls surf…and this guy foils.  haha.  i’m having so much fun!when one of my foil friends comes out, we connect and act like 2 kids having the most fun out there.  and fly through Bowls and Rockpiles on a single wave…surfing has created our bond that will last a lifetime.  i taught these girls that the ocean will fix everything.  so when you have bad days, just jump in the ocean and you will be instantly healed.  i’m glad they understand that at such a young age…Maki-san told me about Zigu.  they are trying to stay open for takeout during these hard times.  so yeah, wanted to support small shops like this so stopped by after surf.a nice takeout package full with delicious food…Zigu has a beef bowl special now.  for just $3, you can have the best beef bowl in Hawaii!  it was so good!as we drove home, i told the girls they should exercise by taking a walk or bike ride down Waikiki.  they will probably never experience this kind of emptiness again in their lifetime…

Style is Everything…

Good morning 5:10am.

North shore 2-3′ and perfect.

Ala Moana waist high and perfect.

Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.

Big North/West swell tomorrow.

Box jellyfish today.

Trade winds at 15mph.

Sunny and warm.

Have a wonderful day!

when the girls asked me to take them surfing today, there was no way i was going to say no.  that’s been the case ever since they were 2 years old.  these are my 2 little princesses and i’ll do anything for them…

Mia hasn’t surfed for over a year because she’s too busy with college and work.  so thanks to the shutdown, we can finally enjoy the ocean together.  i was surprised how good she was surfing today.  so stoked!

Marissa is a charger.  if i told her to go on a 10′ wave, she would go.  such a brave girl…

it took me years and years to teach this girl about surfing style.  once you get it, you will never lose it.  and it helps to have Kelia Moniz as your cousin letting you borrow her magic boards for the past 16 years…

then my foil friend Keoni paddled out and we foiled together.  i was having so much fun that i forgot about the girls.  i almost left them there.  haha…

Tokyo 2020 will be a empty.  go out and exercise because you will see things you won’t experience in a lifetime.

and when you don’t listen and think you’re untouchable, you go to church this past Sunday and disregard the social distancing rules like this.  then half the people get the coronavirus, a quarter die, then it just spreads from there.  so sad to see this happening just this past weekend on the mainland…

and there have been more accidents then ever on Oahu.  i see people speeding on the empty roads and being totally irresponsible.  what’s the freaking rush everybody???