Social Distancing?  Not at Bowls…

Good morning 5:30am.

North shore waist high and good.

Ala Moana waist to chest high and good.

Diamond Head shoulder high and good.

Light winds so perfect morning conditions.

Sunny and warm.

Going to social distance surf.

Have a wonderful day!

i think our government is doing a great job in protecting Hawaii.  some people are complaining that it was too late, but i think it’s never too late.  now, you can’t even go to another island.  that is very smart… can’t find a bag of rice on Oahu anymore.  omg.i was thinking about moving to Molokai for the next 2 months, but now, it would be very irresponsible of me to do that.  so yeah, i’ll miss the secluded beaches…and i’ll miss the free lychee growing wild…and i’ll miss eating the food provide by nature…and i’ll miss the crazy bbq’s…and i’ll miss Uncle Dino’s cooking and aloha…and i’ll miss the slow life with the boys…so if any of you were planning to island hop, please don’t!  respect the locals!  Molokai has zero coronavirus cases so it’s probably the safest place in the world.  don’t screw it up….

this is one of the coolest photos i ever took.  i was teaching Asayama-san how to dive under when the big waves came.  i wasn’t sure what he was doing under the water but when i saw this, i couldn’t stop laughing.  i keep this photo on my desktop because it makes me smile.  haha…

and to see a 70 year old man charging perfect rights like this was a treat.  now Asayama-san is 71 years old and we’re all waiting for him to come back to Hawaii.  Happy Birthday young man, and keep on surfing!!!