Keep the Calmness…

Good morning 5:30am.

North shore 2-4′ and good.

Ala Moana waist high and good.

Diamond Head bumpy in the morning getting better in the afternoon.

Trade winds at 10mph becoming South in the afternoon.

Sun, clouds, showers, and very warm.

Going surfing.

Have a wonderful day!

wow, another beautiful morning here in calm and cool Hawaii.  i can’t believe i was out for almost 4 hours today!  went surfing with Yonobayashi-san.  super cool guy with a super cool lifestyle.  been surfing Bali for 20 years so we had a lot to talk about.  localism, food, and the drastic changes…we surfed Bowls left today because it was super fun.  taking off and looking down the line is exciting.  thinking about what maneuvers to do…Yonobayashi-san was a little nervous in the beginning because he didn’t want to drop in on anybody.  if you drop in on somebody in Bali, you get a punch to the face.  a scary thought.  Hawaii is a little different.  when i say go, you better go!  and don’t worry because if something happens, you won’t get punched, i will.  haha…  he didn’t care about the conditions, about the waves, about the vibe, and about his surfboard.  all he cared about was being in the moment in nature.  i respect that a lot…Bowls local Bruce is one of the coolest locals you will ever meet.  good surfer and good guy…Yonobayashi-san going with the flow.  thank you for the relaxing morning…i see this girl from Taiwan surfing a lot.  always smiling, always happy, and always stoked.  that’s the Aloha from Taiwan…came home to a pleasant surprise.  Kelia was over picking up the kids to take them to the beach.  i was going to join them but ended up falling asleep for 2 hours.  sorry i missed you guys…

front row Bowls.  love it…watch out for the sea urchins.  ouch…no rain, no rainbows.  beautiful…long walls all to yourself.  feel it…morning rush.  flow with it…cross step.  i suck at it…colors and friends.  nothing like it…morning glory.  calmness…glassy no wind days.  ride it…flowers by Asayama-san.  missing it…